Exodus
Hardware · parts list

Pi parts worth having
on a boat.

Hats, sensors and chips that do something genuinely useful afloat — what each one is for, which ones are on Exodus right now, and where to buy them.

Where to buy

The shops worth knowing

Adafruit

New York. Excellent documentation, honest descriptions, and a tutorial for almost everything they sell. If you're learning, start here even when they're not cheapest.

adafruit.com

Arduino

The microcontroller side. Where you go when the job doesn't need a whole computer, or needs to sit somewhere a Pi can't.

arduino.cc

Raspberry Pi

The boards themselves, the official accessories, and the documentation that actually matches the hardware.

raspberrypi.com

SparkFun

Colorado. Similar ground to Adafruit, different catalogue — worth checking both before you buy.

sparkfun.com

Pimoroni

UK. Pi hats and add-ons, often things nobody else makes.

shop.pimoroni.com

SK Pang

UK. The PiCAN CAN-bus boards — the usual way to get a Pi onto an NMEA 2000 backbone.

skpang.co.uk

Seeed Studio

Sensors and modules at low prices, plus their own Pi-compatible boards.

seeedstudio.com

Elecrow

Where the assembled Open Echo sonar board comes from.

elecrow.com

What's actually running on Exodus

Not a wish list — these are fitted

PartWhat it doesConnects by
MCP2515 CAN hat Puts the Pi on the NMEA 2000 backbone. The single most useful board on the boat — without it the Pi is deaf. GPIO hat
Stacking header Passes the GPIO pins up through the hat so everything else can still reach them. Costs almost nothing, solves the problem that stops most people at board two. GPIO
BME280 Barometric pressure, temperature and humidity in one chip. A logged pressure trend is worth more at anchor than any forecast. I2C, 4 wires
DS18B20 probes Waterproof stainless temperature probes on a lead. Engine coolant in and out, fridge, freezer, anywhere you want a number. 1-Wire + 4.7kΩ resistor
BNO085 IMU Nine-axis motion sensor. Heel, pitch and roll — real attitude data without a proprietary sensor. I2C
RTL-SDR dongle Software defined radio on a USB stick. Receives AIS, weather satellite images and a great deal more for about the price of dinner. USB
Ecowitt weather station Outside temperature, humidity and dew point, feeding straight into Signal K. WiFi
Bluetooth sensors Cheap BLE temperature and humidity tags scattered in lockers and compartments, read by the Pi's own Bluetooth. Bluetooth LE
ESP32 boards Sensors where a cable run isn't worth the day it would take. WiFi built in, a few dollars each. WiFi

How these are wired up →

Getting a Pi onto the boat's network

The hat is the whole job

A Raspberry Pi has no marine interfaces at all. It cannot hear NMEA 2000, it cannot hear NMEA 0183, and it has no sensible way to run off 12 or 24 volts. A hat fixes all three, and which one you choose decides what the rest of the project looks like.

MacArthur HAT

From OpenMarine — the people behind OpenPlotter — and the most complete board of its kind. It takes both NMEA 0183 and NMEA 2000, which is the thing most boats actually need, because most boats are a mixture of the two.

InterfaceWhat you get
NMEA 0183 2 inputs, opto-isolated, and 2 outputs
NMEA 2000 1 port, in and out, with an optional 120 Ω termination resistor included
SeaTalk 1 input — for older Raymarine gear that speaks neither of the above
1-Wire A connector for DS18B20 temperature probes, so you don't have to solder your own pull-up resistor onto a breadboard
Power Runs the Pi straight off the ship's batteries, with smart power management that shuts it down cleanly instead of yanking the power and corrupting the SD card

Those opto-isolated inputs are worth the money on their own. Opto-isolation means the incoming signal is passed across a tiny internal light beam rather than a wire — so there is no electrical connection between the boat's instrument wiring and your Pi. A ground loop or a voltage spike on the 0183 line cannot follow it home.

It stacks with other hats, so you can put an AIS receiver board on top of it. Pi 3, 4 and 5, with OpenPlotter.

shop.openmarine.net · documentation

PiCAN-M

From Copperhill / SK Pang. Also does NMEA 0183 and NMEA 2000, also powers the Pi from the bus. Fewer ports than the MacArthur, longer established. Worth pricing against it.

A plain CAN hat

What's on Exodus. An MCP2515 board gets you onto NMEA 2000 and nothing else — no 0183, no SeaTalk, no power management. It is cheap and it works, and if your boat is entirely N2K it's all you need.

If we were buying today knowing what the boat turned into, we'd buy the MacArthur.

What's a multiplexer?

The word that keeps turning up

A multiplexer takes several data streams and combines them into one. That's the entire idea, and on a boat it exists because of a limitation in NMEA 0183.

Why boats need one

NMEA 0183 is point to point. One talker, one listener, one pair of wires. There is no bus, no addressing, no way for three devices to share a cable — if two talkers transmit on the same pair at once, the sentences interleave and both are ruined.

So a boat with a GPS, a depth sounder, a wind instrument and an AIS has four separate talkers, and a chart plotter with one input. The arithmetic doesn't work.

What it does about it

A multiplexer has several inputs and one output. It listens to all of them at once, buffers what arrives, and sends the sentences out of the single output one after another in good order. Nothing collides, nothing is lost, and the plotter sees one tidy stream.

Most will also do a few things beyond merging:

And where it went

NMEA 2000 is a bus, so it doesn't have this problem. Every device shares one backbone and the protocol handles who talks when. On an all-N2K boat there is nothing to multiplex.

What you still need is the bridge: the thing that lets an old 0183 instrument join a modern N2K boat, or lets either of them reach a tablet over WiFi.

And this is the quiet point of the whole site. A Pi running Signal K is a multiplexer — a better one than most you can buy. It takes 0183 in, N2K in, SeaTalk in, Bluetooth sensors, WiFi sensors, and a USB GPS; merges the lot; and serves it back out as 0183, as N2K, as WiFi, or as a web page. The commercial boxes do the same job for a few hundred dollars and don't let you see inside.

The PredictWind DataHub

How we use it, and what it becomes offshore

The DataHub is a small box that is three things at once: a router, an NMEA 2000 gateway, and a weather terminal. On Exodus it is the centre of the whole network — everything aboard sits behind it.

What's in it

InterfaceWhat it's for
NMEA 2000 portStraight onto the boat's instrument backbone
WiFi radio #1Connects out to a communications device — Starlink, a marina network, a phone hotspot
WiFi radio #2Broadcasts the boat's own network to everything aboard
Ethernet WAN + LANWired upstream and wired downstream
Internal GPSWith an external patch antenna, so it knows where the boat is without depending on anything else
4 GB storageOn-board data logging

Two separate radios is the detail that matters. One box is simultaneously a client on somebody else's network and the access point for yours. That's what lets it sit between the outside world and the boat instead of beside it.

How it's used right now

Every device aboard — the Pi, the laptop, the phones, the tablets, the sensors — joins the DataHub's network. The DataHub joins whatever internet is available. Nothing aboard talks directly to the outside.

That one arrangement buys a lot:

What it's really for: offshore

Everything above is convenience. The reason it's fitted is what happens once the marina WiFi is a hundred miles astern.

Offshore, bandwidth stops being free. Whether it's satellite data or a metered Starlink plan, every megabyte is a decision. And the default behaviour of a boat full of modern devices is appalling — phones syncing photos, laptops downloading updates, apps checking in. Untended, a crew of two can burn an offshore data allowance in an afternoon without opening a browser.

The DataHub sits in front of all of it. It filters the rubbish and fetches what you actually asked for. You tell it which forecast models you want, at what resolution, over what area, how often — and it goes and gets exactly that, compressed, and nothing else.

That is the difference between a weather routing workflow that is usable at sea and one that isn't. Not the forecast quality — the discipline about what crosses the link.

The Starlink side

PredictWind build the DataHub to work with Starlink, and the Pro version is specified as Starlink LTE-ready. As we move offshore the plan is for Starlink to become the upstream connection, with the DataHub still sitting between it and the boat, still deciding what goes out and what comes in.

And that's where the security lives. The boat's own network stays private behind the DataHub. Starlink faces the internet; the DataHub faces Starlink; everything aboard faces only the DataHub. One edge, one place to get right.

This part is a plan, not a report. The DataHub is fitted and in daily use as the boat's router and N2K gateway; the offshore Starlink configuration is next winter's job and this page will say so until it's been done for real.

Other things it does

Weather and routing → How the networks fit together

Worth knowing before you buy

Four things that cost us time

A hat covers the pins it sits on. If you plan more than one board, buy a stacking header at the same time. It's a couple of dollars and it saves taking the whole thing apart later.

1-Wire needs a pull-up resistor. 4.7 kΩ between data and 3.3 V. Without it you get nothing and no error message explaining why. Some probe modules include it; bare probes don't.

Wire colours are not standard. On the DS18B20 probes we use, red is power, yellow is data and blue is ground. Other suppliers use black and white for the same jobs. Check before connecting — guessing can cook the sensor.

Check the voltage. The Pi's GPIO is 3.3 volt and not tolerant of 5. Plenty of modules are sold for Arduino at 5 volts. Read the board before you wire it to a Pi.

On the list

Not bought yet

Relay board

Turns the Pi from something that watches into something that acts. Start a generator, switch a pump. Needs real care — see the generator write-up.

Open Echo sonar shield

TUSS4470 board on an Arduino Uno. Our own transducer, our own raw echo data, our own screen.

Current sensors

Hall-effect clamps on individual circuits, to find out what is actually drawing the power at three in the morning.

Flow sensor

On the bilge pump outlet. Counting cycles catches a leak months before you'd otherwise notice.

The projects these feed → All the links